It is the age-old problem for tourist hotspot towns. The summer season brings with it an influx and wave after wave of visitors as they flood into the idyllic seaside paradises that our region has aplenty.
But as summer nears its end and tourists begin to head home for the year, much of the South-West can expect a return to a quieter way of life. While some welcome having their towns back, businesses face the struggle to make ends meet for months on end.
Looe is one such example. The beauty of the town is both what makes it a great place to live, and what puts a strain on the local economy. There is an over-reliance on tourism, second-home ownership is only becoming more prevalent as time goes on, and the identity of the historic fishing port is under threat.
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Nearly at the border with Devon, the town is full of coastal charm and scenic beauty, attracting tourists from far and wide. Divided into East and West Looe by its river, each half of the town offers different, but equally charming atmospheres. Quintessential Cornish staples like pasty and bucket-and-spade shops line East Looe’s high street to its beach, the main attraction for visitors.
“Owning a business in Looe means that you have to make your money in the summer to carry you through the autumn and winter,” said Nigel Flanakin the owner of Ocean and Earth Thai Restaurant in East Looe. “We work seven days a week in the summer, and in winter we lose money.”
While Nigel says he isn’t worried about his business, for others this has been particularly challenging this year, as the wet weather and cost of living crisis have reduced the number of people visiting the town. This has affected both business owners and their employees, as reduced footfall means fewer staff are required.
The seasonality of these opportunities has driven many young people away from the town. One former local, Zach, said: “There’s a real lack of opportunities for young people in the town. There are practically zero graduate jobs, and the jobs that are here are mostly seasonal.”
Another business owner, Julian Olver, faces different challenges. He has co-ran West Looe General Stores for 23 years, offering customers fresh local produce from around Cornwall and the UK.
He said: “We are not reliant on summer tourism as we have good local trade, but this increases by around a quarter in the holiday period.”
How has he seen Looe change over the last 23 years? In response, he said: “The biggest change to us, specifically in West Looe, is the loss of what was a more vibrant community with multi-generational families living in the area.”
He explained that “as many of the older generation have died, the majority of cottages and houses in older parts of the town have been sold as second homes and holiday lets, adding: “This has made small, independent businesses that relied on that community unsustainable, leading to closures and even more properties becoming second homes.”
WHAT IS LIFE IN LOOE LIKE?
By far the busiest in the area, East Looe’s beach brings life to the town. In the summer, the vibrant colours of windbreaks, deck chairs and inflatables dot the beach’s beige sands. Visitors and locals alike enjoy sunbathing on the 70s-esque concrete slabs which back the beach, whilst others prefer to take in the beautiful sea views from the aptly named ‘Banjo Pier’ (which happens to be shaped like a banjo).
East Looe is also known as a prime crabbing hotspot. Families can always be seen sitting along the quayside in the summer months armed with buckets, lines, and bait. This fun family activity offers children a dose of excitement whilst letting adults take in the harbour’s atmosphere, with the waves lapping at their feet and the sound of gulls and boats around them.
West Looe contrasts East Looe in many ways. As the East side of the river attracts the majority of tourists, West Looe has more of a relaxed atmosphere. This is encapsulated by its natural areas.
One of these areas, Kilminorth Woods, is a nest of peaceful woodland trails which are frequently explored by local dog walkers, cyclists and runners (who don’t mind the hills!). These woods offer a chance to escape the crowds and enjoy the local scenery. Similarly, the Looe to Polperro coast path offers a chance to sample some of Cornwall’s natural beauty.
Starting at Hannafore, West Looe’s rugged and pebbly alternative to East Looe Beach, the path winds in and out of various headlands and is peppered with beautiful scenery. On your journey, you can stop for a peaceful swim at the isolated and idyllic beach of Portnadler and get an ice cream or drink at the Talland Bay Beach Cafe.
People are normally very friendly and up for a chat on this route, embodying the more community-focused nature of this side of the river. When you finally reach your destination, the quiet fishing village of Polperro, you can reward yourself with some fish and chips or a stop at one of many local pubs.
This walk isn’t for the faint of heart as the path is typically Cornish, with hills and uneven terrain galore, but luckily you can catch the number ten bus back to Looe to save yourself a long walk home.
But this places the very ruralistic charm that attracts second homeowners in the first place at risk. This goes to the core of the problem facing many towns like Looe, as the charm and beauty of the town are both what make it a great place to live and visit, and what puts a strain on the local economy.